We leave Castelló d’Empúries by bike and cross the Aiguamolls de l’Empordà Natural Park, one of the most important wetlands in Catalonia. The tracks are wide and perfect for cycling through farmland and floodplains inhabited by grey herons, flamingos and mallards. The landscape is open and flat, with the sea nearby and the Pyrenees in the background. After crossing the Fluvià river, we arrive at Sant Pere Pescador, a village marked by the wind and the river that winds its way to the Mediterranean.