In Vilella Alta, we leave the tarmac and take a track that crosses the heart of the Priorat, a highly regarded wine DOQ, among terraced vineyards. The climb is steady but pleasant, with some more technical and rocky sections that require extra attention. The surroundings are majestic. To the right, the terraced vineyards seem to go on forever, and to the left, the stone walls of Montsant tower above us. The silence is broken only by the sound of the wheels on the gravel and the wind coming down from the mountains. We return to the road for the final few kilometres that take us past the historic Monestir d’Escaladei, the origin of Priorat viticulture, before reaching Poboleda, a small stone village that exudes peace and authenticity.