In the Ivars i Vila-sana pond we have booked one of the special activities they offer, tagging different bird species. Walking around the perimeter of the aquifer, on a path that’s just over 2.5 kilometres long, we see a space that once dried up and is now vitally important to birds. We arrive at Lleida when the afternoon begins to fade, just in time for a tour of the Seu Vella and the King’s Castle – La Suda. For dinner, we opt for the most traditional way of eating the famous Lleida snails, roasted “a la llauna”, on a metal sheet with handles placed directly over the embers.