Beautiful country roads surrounded by vineyards take me to Montferri. In a small watchtower stands a shrine by Josep Maria Jujol, who worked with Gaudí. The base of the sanctuary is shaped like a boat that faces the mountains of Montserrat, whose rock formations inspired its shape. I approach the coast again, passing Altafulla, a town with a lovely historical centre, known as Vila Closa, and a seaside district, Les Botigues, that still retains the seafaring character of yesteryear. When I arrive in Tarragona, I walk through the Part Alta neighbourhood and into Casa Castellarnau, a precious example of bourgeois architecture nestled among the noble houses we find on Cavallers Street.